French Route: St. Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
Luzaide/Valcarlos
The starting point is Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port, near Ostabat, where three of the major Santiago Way routes meet. Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port (or Donibane Garazi), is a small city that I had heard a lot about, and which exceeded all of my expectations. The Citadel is well worth a visit before heading off on the Way, as is the castle and Gothic church. Once you have seen the main attractions, leave the village along the Rue d’Espagne until you reach the Porte d’Espagne.
At this point you can choose between two routes: the fi rst is “Napoleon’s Route”, which is harder because it winds through the mountains, takes you to the Honto neighbourhood, crosses the Bentartea col and that of Lepoeder, and reaches the Ibañeta Peak to then descend down a steep, wooded area to Orreaga/Roncesvalles.
There are two different ways to complete this stage, though the most accessible and recommendable when the weather is bad – and for those that do not want to suffer too much – is the option that passes through Luzaide/Valcarlos. Between 1st November and 31st March this is the only possible route.